Day 8
After having a leisurely breakfast of muffins washed down with tea we departed Taupo and headed east via State Highway 2 for Napier, New Zealand’s wine capital. During the first hour or so we made good progress due to the relatively flat terrain with numerous cultivated pine forests. As an aside one of their main timber sources now, since they have virtually wiped out the large indigenous trees are these fast growing pines, apparently originally from California. While, once mature they make a lovely looking forest it is quite obvious they have been planted due to their regular rows. It takes about 25 years for them to have a diameter of about 16 to 18”. Some where I got a close look at to a cut surface have growth rings about ½” wide! So when it comes time to harvest they clear cut as since all of the trees are the same kind and age. This way they are managing a sustainable harvest although at a cost: they displace the indigenous trees and the fast growth rate results in lumber with less strength thus requiring larger timber dimensions when building.
Once we hit the mountains we once again experienced tight turns and numerous switch-backs, but nowhere as severe as we have experienced elsewhere. Near the summit of the pass we came across Waipunga Falls. While we did not linger long they still are a beautiful sight to see.
Late in the morning we made it to Napier. There we first went for a walk on the beach. Here it is vastly different than all the other beaches we have seen in that it is made up of basalt pebbles and granules, all coarser than sand. So they have a dark, almost black colour from the basalt, and is hard to walk on because they are too course to pack, even when wet.
Our next stop in Napier was the New Zealand Wine Centre. Since this area is home to about 40 different wineries, many of which offer tours and wine tasting we decided to give the Wine Centre a try as they allow you to compare 6 different wines from different vineyards in the area. Our hosts were Karl and Janine. While this was Janine’s first day on the job Karl is very knowledgeable on everything to do with wine in the area. They started us off, after a summary of wine making and comments on characteristics of different varieties, in the “Aroma Room” where you get to smell different aromas so that you are better prepared to detect some of the subtle flavours (since taste is closely tied to smell) that are distinctive of each wine. Then they took us to an auditorium where we watched a film which provided an overview of the vineyards in the area followed by a presentation from each of six wine makers describing a specific wine. And in front of us was a holder with 6 glasses each with about an ounce and a half of the wine being described for us to taste as well as a “score sheet” so that we could rate and compare. The six red wines we sampled were: Paritua Stonepaddock Scarlet, Alpha Domus Navigator (our least favourite), CJ Pask Cabernet (our favourite – Janice and I actually share very similar tastes for wine), Unison Merlot, Stonecroft Serine Syrah and Gunn Estate Silistria Syrah.
After we finished our sampling of the reds we also had the opportunity to try several whites and roses. From the latter we chose a bottle of Sileni Cabernet Franc Rose to take with us and share as a treat. All are expensive, even once you allow for the exchange rate. For example the 6 reds we tried varied from NZ$24.90 all the way up to NZ$32.00. Our favourite, the CJ Pask, was a middle of the road NZ$24.90 so obviously price doesn’t always mean better taste but then we knew that already! To me this was a real highlight of our trip to date.
After touring the Wine Centre we went for a walk in the downtown area and then found a cafe where we had lunch. While wandering around we located a Sewing Machine shop where Janice asked about where she could find any local quilt shops. The proprietor gave us the location of two which we then proceeded to visit. While Janice found some fabric at the first it was the second that had the best selection of New Zealand centric fabrics with some really neat patterns and colour combinations.
From there we then started the journey to Wellington where we plan to drop off the car tomorrow and then take the ferry to Picton and the South Island. We got as far as Dannevirke where we stopped for the night.
Day 9
It had rained during the night and was quite windy when we continued our journey. For the most part it was a pleasant trip through rolling hills. Just to the west of the town of Woodville the tops of the hills are capped by a massive wind turbine farm with likely over a hundred turbines. From there we continued south on State Highway 2 that soon brought us to Mangatainoka, home of the Tui Brewery. Under different circumstances maybe would have stopped to sample the wares but we continued on. Besides, with supper the two previous evening I have had a glass of Tui ale and must say it is quite good! For the next while we drove along with a beautifully intense rainbow just off to our right to the west as there were rain showers between us and the mountain range further to the west. Unfortunately by the time we made it to the Pukaha Mount Bruce Wildlife Centre, home to a number of rare New Zealand species in their natural environment, including Kiwi’s, we were right under one of those rain clouds. Since it involved a 30 minute hike and it did not look like the rain was going to stop, after getting some more souvenirs, we continued driving south. Ironically it wasn’t long and we were out of the rain!
From Featherstone to Hutt we crossed over the mountains once again. Boy, sure good exercise for the arms turning back and forth as we followed the twisting road up the side of the pass! Just past the top they are constructing a cut to bypass a couple of the sharpest curves. Here the posted speed limit is 50 kph. At the end of the construction there was a sign saying the speed limit was once again 100. I laughed in that there was no way I was going to go any faster than 50 due to the nature of the road and that is the speed I had been lucky to get up to at best for the previous 15 minutes or so!
Once over the crest of the pass we descended into The Hutt River valley and followed the river right down to the Wellington harbour. We found the car rental place just around lunch time and pulled in as we needed to drop off the car there and catch the ferry to Picton. Even though I had called Auckland two days prior to say we would be arriving today the attendant didn’t have any record of our arrival. It took him a while to straighten things out, but that was not a problem as the next ferry was not scheduled to leave until 2 pm. Once the paper work was done we were given a ride to the nearby ferry terminal. There we found out that the ferry was delayed about an hour so we had lunch at the canteen. Over lunch I checked a guide book we had for possible accommodation in Picton and located a Bed and Breakfast that looked interesting, the Marineland. I called their toll free number and booked a room for the night. After lunch we then went for a walk.
The ferry finally left the terminal at about 3:15 pm. We got a good view of Wellington from the harbour as well as the incoming ferry, a twin to the one we were on, as it was arriving from Picton.
We arrived in Picton at 6:15. Upon disembarking we picked up our luggage, located our new rental car, another white Nissan Sunny identical to the one we left in Wellington and then drove to the Marineland B&B. Once we settled our overnight bags in our room we then walked the short distance down to the harbour and found a restaurant for supper.
Day 10
After enjoying a simple continental breakfast of cereal and toast at the B&B we departed Picton. We had planned on driving down to near Christchurch and then taking Highway 73 across the island to the west coast but instead opted, at the last minute, on taking Highway 63 from Blenheim to where it joined with Highway 6 and then staying on that highway to Hokitika. And we are glad we did! The first hour was through kilometre after kilometre of large vineyards made all the more surreal with the sight of snow capped mountains as a backdrop. I had thought the Napier district was impressive for its vineyards but it pales in comparison to this area!
Soon before reaching the west coast we were in rain almost continuously until we reached Hokitika. But that did not stop us from appreciating the scenery. The surf was pretty wild thanks to the high winds from the west that were still blowing from yesterday. At one overlook we had a fantastic view of the waves crashing in. And when we went back to the car a Weka (forest hen – see http://www.nzbirds.com/birds/weka.html) came out to greet us!
Our next stop was at the Punakaiki National Park and more specifically the Pancake Rocks and Blowholes road side park. Here the limestone forms thin layers that when weathered take on the look of stacked pancakes. And in places this rock formation is weathered such that there are holes through which ocean waves crash into and then blow air and water out the top. Very impressive!
Upon arriving in Hokitika we checked into the BellaVista motel and then drove downtown and had an excellent meal at an Indian restaurant, after taking a walk down to the shore.
Tomorrow we continue south in Highway 6 and plan to see the Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers and either stopping for the day at Queenstown or Te Anau (assuming that we decide to go to Milford Sound).
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